So for those of you considering upgrading to Xenons, here are some details about installing Xenon version headlamps to a non-Xenon Megane III (X95).
If your thinking about whether this is effected by the new MOT laws from 2012 and whether this will become illegal, the official leaflet on the DFT website http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repositor...3-lighting.pdf states in section 1.7
The Department for Transport considers that after-market systems should be required to meet the same safety standards as that applied in respect of these lamps at vehicle Type Approval. Therefore, in order to pass the MOT test, vehicles fitted with after-market HID systems would also need to be fitted with headlamp cleaning and self-levelling systems.My setup consists of a retro-fit headlamp washer system which works. I will post details about this mod shortly. I will however be working on retro-fitting an auto levelling system in the near future.
The DFT publication also states that:
Where headlamp levelling or cleaning devices are missing or defective, but there is doubt as to whether they are required, the benefit of the doubt should be given and an advisory notice issued.This statement opens up a whole new chapter in terms of interpretation. If a tester is testing a car that has OEM projector based HID headlamps and correctly functioning headlamp washers and all the beam patterns and everything are fine, then I dont think they will just fail it because it has no self-levelling system.
Back to the topic, here are a few pics of the xenon version projector based headlamp:
The headlamp units are actually a direct replacement. The exisiting wiring harness and connectors all fit and operate the Xenon headlamps. The only thing different is that the Xenon headlamps have the cornering feature which have an additional connector. As the car doesnt have this feature, I didnt have anything to connect to this, so I simply covered with a rubber insert. In the near future I may attempt to get this working using custom wiring.
There is however one small problem with directly swapping a Halogen with a Xenon version. The UCH in the car is programmed for a standard halagon bulb, and after a little while the car detects a problem with the discharge bulbs and will begin to flicker. The reason for this is that the car is sensing a steady current. A ballasts needs are anything but steady. To resolve this I basically added an inline HID anti-flicker decoder to each headlamp unit. It is basicaly a smoothing capacitor in parallel with an inductor. There may however be a way to have the UCH re-programmed to accept HID. The inline decoder works fine for me. If you are going to do this, I would recommend using some weatherproof connectors like the 2-way superseals, and also just as a precaution add a inline fuse. This way, if the decoder ever fails, you can simply remove and replace with another one.
***UPDATE with Complete Photos***
Hi, can you tell me how you installed the headlight washer system and where you got the parts from for it? looking to do it myself. Cheers James
ReplyDeleteHi James,
DeleteThe headlamp washer jets came with my second-hand bumper that I purchased, I then built a custom circuit that activates a relay to power the headlamp washer pump. The headlamp washer pump activates if the main beam lights are on and if the windscreen washer is activated. I will try and do a write-up on this soon.
hello, can you give me an explanation of the anti flicker box to buy, or references?
ReplyDeletethank you in advance.
sorry for my English but I am French.
eBay item number #: 130709395279
Deleteyou will have to cut off the connectors, and it is best to solder those connectors and use them to make the decoder removable. Also, try and add a 15A or 20A inline fuse to the decoder.
Hello Ahmed
ReplyDeleteI have purchased two xenon headlamp units for my halogen-equipped Megane, they already have the ballast at the bottom of the headlamp units and an Osram connector behind the xenon bulb, could you please advise where you would splice in the decoder?
Many thanks!
You would need to locate the ground wire going from the headlight connector and also the +12v main beam wire. You would then need to cut these wires (do not cut it too close the the connector, better to go far back as possible). Once you have cut the +12v and the ground. You would connect those to the input +/- of the decoder. The output from the decoder will connect to the other end of the cut wire. It is best to crimp on weatherproof quick disconnects and also a good idea to add a inline fuse to the +12v input. I cannot remember the exact wire colours from the top of my head, but I know the ground is the thick black cable. I will find out the colour of the +12v wire as well later and update you on that.
DeleteYou will need to repeat this step on the other side headlamp too. Remember to secure the decoder somewhere.
Hope that helps.
Thanks Ahmed for the detailed reply. The capacitors have finally arivved, I understand most of your explanation but would appreciate it if you could clarify the following for me:
ReplyDeleteI can these 'decoders' are designed for use where you have dedicated +12v and -12v ground wires as most aftermarket HID installations require you to simply connect to the halogen lamp socket for power.
While the +12V side of the wires I can easily understand because the dipped beam has its dedicated +12v wire in the loom, it's a bit more tricky to figure out the ground wire.
My assumption is the dipped beam, high beam, indicator and sidelight all share the same ground wire in the wiring loom?
So if I cut the ground wire in the wiring loom and connect the decoder to it, does that not mean the ground for the high beam/blinker/sidelight would also go through the decoder? Does this matter?
Also, assuming the above is correct, would it mean that, for the -12v side, I would actually connect the OUTPUT side of the decoder to the cut ground wire at the HEADLIGHT end, and the INPUT side of the decoder to the other end back to ground, completing the loop?
Or am I completely off and the dipped beam has its own ground wire in the loom, and it's just a simple matter of cut-and-connect?
Thanks heaps for your help!!
All headlamp units have a single high gauge ground wire going into the headlamp connector. This ground wire then becomes many ground wires inside the headlamp unit and is shared between all the separate lighting circuits.
DeleteYou are correct that the decoders are designed for aftermarket HID's where you would connect directly to the connector which is located inside the headlamp unit itself. But I preferred to do the installation of the decoder outside the headlamp unit. Most of these decoders come with a good high gauge wire which can easily handle the current load for all the lighting circuits. Simply cut off the +12v for the main dipped beam and also the ground before it goes to the headlamp connector, then have it go to the decoder's input (with a 15a inline fuse), and then have the decoder's output connect the the headlamp connector that is cut-off. Repeat this step on the other side and it should all be fine.
Hope this makes sense.
Hi Ahmed,
ReplyDeleteI have just purchased a new 2013 Megane RS 265 and am really regretting not getting the Xenon headlights and would like to retrofit them. Could you please advise on the following:
Where can I purchase the Xenon headlight units from including ballast+bulbs?
Where can I purchase the HID anti-flicker decoder?
You mentioned your car does not have the wiring for the cornering/directional feature. Despite having halogens I am wondering if mine has the connections for this feature as it is an RS model?
I only ask this because my car has the headlight washer system factory fitted despite not having the xenon headlights.
Any help would be much appreciated.
hi Ahmed
ReplyDeleteOne question.
How did you resolve the self-levelling?
I haven't worked on that yet. the aim of the beams are already low so on full loading of the car the beam just stays low. I'm probably going to retrofit the self-leveling system soon as i would like everything to work.
DeleteDo you have a link to the resistors you used as I have tried with one and it just slowed down the flickering not stopped it.
ReplyDeleteThere are quite a lot of them, they are not actually resistors. These are decoders which consist of a capacitor in parallel with an inductor. This smooths out the current and makes it more steady so that the car doesnt think there is a fault on the line. There are many on eBay, if you go on ebay and type HID decoders you will find lots. Example would be eBay item number #: 371121202477
DeleteHi. I do have the same problem. A xenon light bulb with no plug. I attached a screenshot. I had to broke it from the wires. Please, help. I want to use some other h7 lights. Thank you.
ReplyDeletehttp://storage6.static.itmages.com/i/16/0729/h_1469820387_1071696_92c5296735.png
The stuff in this blog is in not only incredible but also providing the great knowledge to the people.
ReplyDeleteD3S Xenon Bulbs
hi,
ReplyDeletei am not an auto electritian and don't know a thing about it but still want to buy and install bi xenon headlights to my RS 250. is there any site who sells the complete kit including everything. Ahmed it would be really great if u post all the clear pics of the installation. i read all above comments really my head start spinning.
hello,
ReplyDeleteI'm trying to find if RS headlights will retrofit on my 2011 megane3 so I was wondering if you can say what's your specific megane model and if you had problems retrofitting the headlights.
THanks
Simone
Did you ever get corners and auto leveling to work?
ReplyDeleteHi, question did you get the Auto leveling to work? Can you still use the leveling button from inside the car to level the lamps
ReplyDeleteNo it don’t work, you have to level it with the screw on the headlight and it’s fixe
Delete